Bugaboo Rock The Bugaboos are a unique cluster of granite spires, which offer some of the best climbing in Canada. They attract rock climbers from around the world with outstanding alpine rock and beautiful scenery in a wilderness setting. While the climbing is mostly on rock, the approaches are typically across glaciers making for a well rounded mountaineering experience. The mountains here offer a wide range of objectives. Pigeon Spire, by its west ridge, is a relatively easy if exposed 5.4 ridge. Bugaboo Spire can be climbed by the original Kain route, which is mostly 4th or easy 5th class climbing with several harder pitches (up to 5.7) near the summit. More experienced climbers can ascend Bugaboo by the classic North East Ridge, which has 10 pitches of up to 5.7 and an exposed summit traverse. Although legendary guide Conrad Kain considered Snowpatch Spire to by unclimbable, there are several routes by which to ascend including the South East Corner (16 pitches 5.8) and the South West Ridge (8 pitches 5.9). For strong climbers with excellent fitness, there is the Becky Chouinard route on South Howser Tower. With 20 pitches of climbing up to 5.10, a long glacier approach, and a technical descent, this is a huge objective which many climbers aspire to. There are also many quality climbs closer to our base at the Kain Hut. These offer the perfect venue to teach you the skills necessary for safe travel in the mountains. With the guide, you can custom design the course to suit your needs. Glacier travel, crevasse rescue, placing gear, rappelling, building anchors and learning to lead are all possible in the bugaboos. If you have some experience rock climbing on smaller cliffs, this is the perfect place to learn the techniques for necessary for moving quickly on multipitch alpine routes. Your guide can teach you where to use natural anchors, short roping and other techniques for moving safely and quickly in the big mountains.
This five day trip will attempt to climb five of the classic peaks in the Bugaboos. Bugaboo, Snowpatch, Pigeon, Marmolata and Cresent Spires will be the goals for this week. This is an aggressive itinerary designed for climbers with previous rock climbing experience and excellent physical fitness. These are long mountaineering trips with glacier travel, pitched rock climbing and technical descents. Your guide will provide you with the experience and knowledge of the terrain to complete these routes in a day. For those with less experience or different objectives, this trip can be customised to include more instruction and less climbing.
Dates:
July - September
If you have limited time or are only interested in a specific peak why not just hire a guide for your particular objective. Also if you are planning a trip on your own, but aren’t confident enough to attempt one of the bigger routes, this is the perfect way to compliment your trip. Below are listed some of the more sought after climbs in the Bugaboos. If you have something in mind that isn’t listed, just ask.
Bugaboo Spire- North East Ridge: (5.8)
Bugaboo Spire- Kain Route (5.7)
South Howser Tower- Becky Chouinard Route (5.10)
Snowpatch Spire- Surfs Up (5.9)
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Classic
Spires
Peak
Ascents
Dates:
July- September
